Cakes, cereals, yogurts … Why are they always so sweet? – BFM Business

Since the implementation of Nutri-Score, manufacturers have endeavored to improve the nutritional quality of their products, in particular by lowering the sugar level. But it is not that easy.

For several years, products “without added sugars” or with reduced sugar content have been lining supermarket shelves. Manufacturers are striving to improve the nutritional qualities of their products, particularly since the arrival of tools such as the Yuka application and Nutri-Score.

There is no evidence that the sugar levels in the products we eat have fallen over the years. Data from the Food Observatory (Oqali), responsible for monitoring the overall food supply and measuring changes in nutritional quality, clearly shows that all products are not equal on the subject.

For the “crispy chocolate muesli” family, the sugar level has thus reduced by 4.3 grams per 100g on average between 2008 and 2018. The same goes for chocolate cereals, which saw their sugar content drop by 6.7 grams over the same period, market shares included.

But conversely, the sugar contained in compotes increased by 4% (market share included) between 2009 and 2017. Worse, in Liège and similar desserts, the sugar level increased by 10% on average between 2009 and 2018.

Association Consumption Housing Living environment (CLCV) has just published a study on yogurts and dairy desserts in which it denounces the presence of very high sugar levels. Dairy desserts of animal origin (creams, mousses, flans, etc.) thus contain the equivalent of 4 lumps of sugar for a 125g jar. In fact, some are so sweet that they shouldn’t even be considered “dairy products”.

A consequence of the Nutri-Score

The drop in sugar, and more generally the desire to improve the nutritional quality of products, is mainly linked to the implementation of the Nutri-Score since 2016. This nutritional labeling system (from A for the healthiest foods to E for those which contain high levels of salt, sugar or fat for example) has become a buying reflex for consumers and therefore, a marketing argument.

Public health France note that “more and more consumers say they have changed at least one of their purchasing habits thanks to Nutri-Score”. They are 57% in 2020 to declare having done so, against 43% in 2019. In addition, 70% of those questioned have a better image of a brand which undertakes to affix the nutri-score.

Improving the qualities of a product to go from a D to C rating then becomes a selling point.

“We have a lot of manufacturers who ask us to improve their Nutri-Score”, confirms Béatrice de Reynal, doctor of nutrition and marketing director of the consulting firm Nutrimarketing, which works with many players in the food industry.

Brossard has thus lowered the sugar level of its flagship Savane cake to raise it from a D to C.

“Beyond the interest of informing the consumer, the goal of Nutri-Score was also to encourage manufacturers to improve their products by putting them in a situation to display the reality of their composition and to play on competition between the different firms “, confirms Serge Hercberg, professor of nutrition and designer of the famous Nutri-Score.

Reluctant industrialists

For the moment, nothing obliges manufacturers to display the Nutri-Score on their products. Private labels are good students. Intermarché has thus modified 900 recipes and crossroads has stepped up its sugar hunt and display the nutriscore on all of their products.

“It’s not very surprising. The large distributors sell everything so they don’t mind displaying E or D products because they have others that will be A and B,” explains Serge Hercberg.

“But for brands like Mars or Mondelez (Oreo, Philadelphia, Milka …), almost all of their portfolio is poorly classified. So they find it more difficult to accept playing transparency,” says “Mr. Nutri- Score”.

The giant Lactalis (President, Galbani, Salakis …), opposed to Nutri-Score which it considers unfavorable to its activity, has just created its own rating system. “By noting D, E or red products, we disqualify them. The risk, in fine, is to destroy a cheese, dairy and creamer market whose quality has made France famous”, explained Philippe Palazzi, director. General of Lactalis, quoted by Le Figaro.

“It is certain that one is never better labeled than by oneself. But Lactalis does not play the game, as often”, deplores Serge Hercberg.

Above all, if the Nutri-Score is a selling point, it does not mean that you should not buy the product. A bad rating simply reminds the consumer to eat a small amount and not to consume it too often.

“Nutella has never been bothered by the Nutri-Score while it is classified E, the worst score. Because people do not want to do without it”, nuance Béatrice de Reynal of the Nutrimarketing firm.

Reducing blood sugar is not that easy

To reduce the sugar content of products, several solutions exist to satisfy the consumer’s desire for sweetness while reducing the quantity. You have to fool the brain.

“For example, Nestlé put the sugar on the outside of the nuggets of its cereals. The tongue perceives the sweet taste intensely, but inside there are less sugars”, explains Béatrice de Reynal.

It is also possible to play on the acidity of a product to reduce the sugar level. “Instead of using pure sugar, you can use apple or fruit purees. There are more and more products with zucchini,” adds Béatrice de Reynal.

But lowering the sugar content comes up against several obstacles. On the one hand, sugar is a preservative. On the other hand, it is of great importance for the texture of the product. “A madeleine without sugar would be much too wet because the sugar retains this moisture”, explains the doctor of nutrition.

On the other hand, while consumers are looking for products that are better for their health, they don’t want to go without sugar. “A dessert cream without sugar, no one will find it good,” says Béatrice de Reynal.

As a reminder, the National Agency for National Food Safety (ANSES) recommends not to consume more than 100 grams of sugars per day (excluding lactose and galactose) and not more than one sweet drink.