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Revealed during the pandemic (3/4). Amandine Chaignot swapped her chef’s hat for a grocer’s coat during the first confinement to support producers and feed Parisians in search of quality products. Its small farmers’ market, a real bubble of freshness in the gloom of the capital, is being followed.
Amandine Chaignot is never where you expect it to be. The Parisian chef should never have worked in the restaurant business. Born in Orsay in 1979 to scientific parents, the young girl should, according to all family logic, have embraced a brilliant career in the sciences. “I grew up in an engineering bubble between Polytechnique, INRA, CNRS and Centrale Supélec. I was conditioned to continue in this direction.” Missed. The young student in the faculty of pharmacy throws in the towel after a year and a half of classes. It was during a small job in a pizzeria that she discovered by chance the world of catering. The energy, the movement, the adrenaline that emerges during the service, everything pleases him.
The rest goes through the benches of traditional gastronomy. Alongside the larger ones between Paris (Bristol, Meurice, Crillon, Plaza Athénée) and London (Ritz, Hotel Rosewood), the young apprentice is cutting edge. It multiplies experiences and competitions. Bocuse d’or, Meilleure Ouvrière de France (MOF), the young hope of French cuisine is starting to make a name for itself. It is therefore natural that she opens her own restaurant. “Pouliche” was inaugurated in October 2019, a stone’s throw from the abundant rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis, in the 10e arrondissement of Paris, where you can savor modern and gourmet cuisine.
“Pouliche”, a bridge between Parisians and market gardeners
Twist of fate, five months after its opening, France is confining itself to deal with the Covid-19 epidemic. The announcement falls badly for the small team which has just been set up. Stunned? Not completely. Recluse in her Parisian apartment, the hyperactive young entrepreneur refuses to be won over by despondency and inaction. Faced with the lack of fresh produce in short circuits in Paris, a new idea came to him: to convert his establishment into an early market. A new about-face to her fate, Amandine Chaignot is fully embarking on her new project. “In talking with the producers with whom I have worked for ten years, I felt a great dismay. I also saw the Parisians, eager to cook, encountering difficulties in obtaining supplies of good quality fresh products. J I therefore decided to be the link that was missing between producers and consumers. “
After a week spent carrying out lease checks, contacting producers, installing goods, the brand new grocery store is ready to welcome its first customers. About twenty producers deliver the providential store. Asparagus, strawberries, honey, citrus fruits, spices, bread, wine, the products arrive on the stalls according to availability. “The customers were surprised at first. And then word of mouth really hit the ground running.” To ensure the success of this new business, the grocer does not hesitate to communicate on social networks.
Grocer, restaurateur and YouTuber
Renamed “Le marché de Pouliche” for the occasion, the place is not lacking in charm. “Back then there was disposable plastic everywhere and plexiglass behind every human, I wanted to make the place look pretty and cheerful at the same time.” Full music, the young grocer offers cured meats and cold meats from the house of Montalet and its Kalios olive oils, along with her culinary advice. “People were laughing to see me struggling with my bills, remembers the chef. There was a beautiful recklessness despite the heavy context.” The formula pleases. Customers flock from 10 am to 2 pm to access the pantry of the MOF. “There were days when there was a line up to rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis.” The concept is being emulated. Other restaurateurs, deprived of activity, are inspired by the idea of the Parisian forty-something to launch in turn their early market.
Amandine Chaignot could have been satisfied with this new activity. It is bad to know this bulimic of work. When she is not in her grocery store, she returns to her stoves to prepare between 20 and 50 meals a day for hospital staff, in collaboration with the Solidaires collective. At this time, food services were failing to provide enough meals for the many caregivers in hospitals. Some chefs are rolling up their sleeves and participating in the fight against the virus from their kitchen.
New projects
During these rare moments of free time, Amandine Chaignot still finds time to post some easy cooking tutorials on YouTube, to help cooking beginners condemned to prepare to eat twice a day.
Since May 19, Amandine Chaignot, like all restaurateurs in France, has found her team and clients at her table at number 11, rue d’Enghien. Things have resumed their normal course. Or almost. The business manager is due to open a new establishment in the Place du Théâtre de l’Atelier in Montmartre, where she lives, in a few days. The Café de Luce, named after his grandmother, will be a typically Parisian bistro where you can come and drink a café crème with a zinc croissant and eat frog legs at noon. So no more grocery store activities? The interested party does not close the door to the project. “I would like to continue this activity. We just have to think about a viable model”, confides with a mischievous smile the tireless and surprising Parisienne.
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